Update 2: this was a bug in my router, not QUIC. See below, I also posted to the QUIC protocol group about it.
The Google is broken on my computer. This happened once before. Web sessions to every site on the Internet work fine except Google properties. Those hang for ~15 seconds for every web request in Chrome. Safari requests work fine.
Both times this has happened to me have been up in Grass Valley, the place with the shitty fixed wireless Internet. And both times when I’ve looked in Wireshark there’s some QUIC protocol stuff happening, I don’t know what. But my guess is that Chrome is deferring all requests to QUIC and they have a bug / bad interaction with my ISP where it doesn’t work right.
I could swear I once saw some QUIC diagnostic info inside Chrome. Or at least a way to disable QUIC entirely. Can’t find it now. Of course it’s hard to find things when Google doesn’t work. Edit: found the disable, it’s in chrome://flags. The statistics are in chrome://net-internals/#quic. The moment I disabled QUIC Google searches worked better. Interestingly, simply restarting Chrome didn’t help, at least not completely. I lack the patience to test this carefully, no point if no one’s going to pay attention to the result.
In desperation I’ve tried using Bing. It’s not as good as I remember. In the past I didn’t like the UI but the relevance was mostly good. But now the relevance is bad. They were returning URLs for RSS feeds on Metafilter for searches. WTF?
Update: I have a theory! It may be my router QoS settings. Tomato / Toastman 1.28 doesn’t have a rule for QUIC, but does have a default rule that all UDP traffic otherwise not classified is assigned the category “crawl”, which is limited to just 5% (40kbps) on my network. D’oh! I wonder if this also is responsible for my worse-than-expected League of Legends performance here. I added a rule for QUIC (UDP ports 80/443, classify WWW). Also raised the bandwidth cap on “Crawl” to 100% traffic, that was a dumb default rule. Now to try it out for a few hours…